GENERALLY and personally speaking, I find soufflés to be a very much overrated offering. Unless a kitchen has proved itself first-rate, I avoid them, since they are often grainy, eggy, tough or heavy.
But at the Arch, soufflés have always been given respect, and I find myself responding ''yes, please'' when offered Grand Marnier soufflé for dessert.
An evening at the Arch, George Seitz's beautiful restaurant, is a reminder of what the adjective in ''fine dining'' signifies. Edgy cuisine can be exciting but it rarely endures; the next new thing inexorably replaces today's inspired concept.
Mr. Seitz's genius is to merge a bit of contemporary with the classic on his fixed-price dinner menu, borrowing flourishes from the international table, but never losing his artistic compass.
Consistency rather than flash is also apparent in the lovingly maintained details, familiar but always remarkably fresh, from the charming garden to the gleaming mirrors and sconces at the entry to the napkin rings adorned with tiny rosebuds.
Crocks of sweet butter and savories of pork and duck rillettes and chicken liver pâté accompanied delicious breads, precursors to terrific appetizers. A crisp, transparent wash of Grand Marnier and coconut heightened the sweetness of three big pink shrimp; gravlax, cured in house, came with dill and cucumber; and smoked salmon and tuna, scallop and dainty mounds of salads were artfully arranged.
Just as splendid, sautéed scallops in black bean sauce spilled from a large radicchio cup, the Asian- inspired dish fragrant with ginger and scattered with chopped scallion and pignoli.
Big chunks of crab and lobster plumped a seafood cake to be touched with Dijon sauce; and apple and sweet black-currant Cassis matched perfectly earthy softness of foie gras ($20 surcharge). Weightless cheese soufflé was without fault, but as a starter, its assertive flavor daunted rather than stimulated the appetite.
Neat fresh salad with sesame dressing or soup comes as part of the dinner. Cold cucumber soup remained our favorite. Potato-leek soup of the day could have been less salty.
A couple of entrees have made recent and successful debuts on the Arch's familiar menu. Most intriguing were lean yet remarkably tender antelope medallions, particularly magnificent, swiped with truffle butter; a fruity mousse added subtle sweetness to this farmed, mild-flavored game meat.
And anticipating cool weather, braised beef short ribs released hearty juiciness into the accompanying creamy truffled risotto.
Calf's liver was mated classically with onions, apples and bacon. Slices of mango cloaked a roasted duck half. Expect mashed potatoes, piped carrot, sliced squash, grape tomatoes, snow pea, fruits, spinach or couscous in whatever combination enhances the meat or fish.
Placed on a lacing of lobster sauce, succulent wild salmon arrived flanked by grilled shrimp. Only lean-fleshed roasted pheasant was dry.
Like the menu, the wine list is international, compact and excellent, with well-chosen bottles in all price ranges.
An assortment of cheeses -- every one at the point of perfect ripeness -- is dessert enough, particularly with a glass of sweet wine.
And then there's that billowy Grand Marnier soufflé. Or have the open apple pie: big chunks of Granny Smiths, cinnamon and raisins topping a thin, light crust.
Only thick-crusted crème brûlée and leaden chocolate macadamia tart missed the mark. Every table receives a salver of tiny chocolates and buttery cookies, including the Arch's famous pecan diamonds.
The Arch
Route 22, Brewster (half-mile north of Interstate 84). (845)279-5011.
EXCELLENT
Atmosphere -- Woodlands and a pleasant garden surround a lovely country house with gleaming, beautifully appointed dining areas. Warm welcome and fine, attentive service.
Recommended dishes -- Crisped shrimp Grand Marnier, foie gras with apples and Cassis, house-cured gravlax, scallops with black bean sauce, smoked fish plate, crab and lobster cake, cucumber soup, duck with mango, antelope medallions, calf's liver, braised short ribs with truffles, wild salmon, Grand Marnier soufflé, cheese assortment, Granny Smith apple pie.
Prices -- Lunch, à la carte, main dishes, $17.50 to $27.50. Dinner, $64 fixed price (four courses plus lagniappes). Brunch, $36 fixed price. Occasional surcharges.
Credit cards -- Major cards.
Hours -- Lunch, Wednesdays through Fridays, noon to 2:30 p.m. Dinner, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Saturdays, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Sundays, 2:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. Brunch, Sundays, noon to 2:30 p.m.
Reservations -- Advisable.
Wheelchair access -- Steps at entrance.
The Ratings -- Excellent. Very good. Good. Satisfactory. Poor. Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
Review published: Oct. 10, 2004
