STONELEIGH CREEK, late of Croton Falls, seems to have successfully weathered the trip down county to Armonk.
A few fine points in décor and pacing still need attention, but the essential refurbishing of the space last occupied by the Armonk Grill has given the old place some polish and shine while retaining its casual neighborhood feel. Paint is fresh, flowers grace every table, sconces shed a pleasing light, and the food is prepared and arranged with care.
A light way to start a meal could be with a simple salad of grilled portobello mushroom; the meaty, fresh mushroom was neatly scraped, sliced and splayed over a bed of greens. Although wasabi mayonnaise was too spicy for my taste, others loved the peppery punch it gave to tuna tataki, thick slices of sweet, sushi-grade tuna sprinkled with black and white sesame seeds; an acidic edge was provided by a salad of refreshing cubed mango.
A delicious combination of soft goat cheese and caramelized onions topped a thin, crisped base of a sweet-tangy appetizer tart. And the only problem with a dish of calamari — the tiny rings crunchy and light as gossamer — was the dipping sauce, a dark, off-tasting concoction that included citrus and teriyaki sauce. A special of four jumbo shrimp with Gorgonzola depended rightly on splendid shrimp for its success; the pairing of seafood and pungent cheese may be an acquired taste. Ravioli were unpleasantly soft from overcooking.
One or two soups are usually on hand. Although the pumpkin soup arrived only lukewarm, its deep vegetable flavors made it worth recommending. Fresh and remarkably tender hunks of clam bobbed in the New England clam chowder, a potentially appealing soup that could have been a mite less thick and heavy.
Stoneleigh’s fish entrees were a winning lot. A server informed us that fish here are just a day away from their source in Hawaii or the Northeast coast. Every fish we tasted was moist and delicious. A thick fillet of skinned snapper (opakapaka) came topped with tiny shrimp tumbled with fragrant tarragon, an odd pairing that worked. An unusual, piquant relish of cranberry and ginger brought up the flavor of grilled Tasmanian salmon, which was timed precisely, as was a special of juicy swordfish teamed with peach, orange couscous and spinach. Every element was on the money in a dish of shrimp, big, fat scallops and a polenta cake.
A couple of meat dishes fell short of the high standards set by the fish. Tasty but a tad dry, beef short ribs nonetheless were treated to a lovely dark truffle sauce that ran into a mound of mashed potatoes. Strip steak could have used better trimming, but there’s no complaining about the paper cone of fresh golden fries that accompanied it.
Anthony Rubeo, in charge of the kitchen and co-owner with his brother Alex, is clearly not reluctant to experiment. The dessert offerings seem to change often. The cute, fruity beggar’s purses of a few weeks ago haven’t reappeared, but take heart. Served in a cup like a cappuccino, dense, smooth chocolate mousse came topped with whipped cream and a dusting of cinnamon. With this knockout available, why bother with a lemon tart in dry cookie dough crust or with a weird combination called Baked Brie, in which apple, raisins and the cheese are encased in a shell of armadillo pastry and served with cinnamon ice cream.
The back deck is such a pleasant spot for a drink or a dish that it’s not a bad idea to bundle up to enjoy the last warm rays of sun. Just be sure to take a seat near the copper heater.
Stoneleigh Creek
One Kent Place
Armonk
(914) 276-0000
stoneleighcreek.com
VERY GOOD
THE SPACE Small, formally appointed tables in an informal, comfortable dining room with bar and pleasantly situated dining deck heated by a nifty copper chimney. At times, service can be slow. Shallow step at entrance.
THE CROWD Neatly attired neighborhood groups. Few children.
THE BAR Friendly neighborhood bar. International wine list with fair mark-ups at twice the price of most wine shops.
THE BILL Lunch, main dishes, $12 to $14. Dinner, entrees, $24 to $32.
WHAT WE LIKE Tuna tataki, goat cheese and onion tart, grilled portobello mushroom salad, Gorgonzola shrimp (special), pumpkin soup; snapper (opaka paka), Tasmanian salmon, swordfish (special), shrimp and scallops with polenta cake, short ribs; chocolate mousse, blueberry beggar’s purse (special).IF YOU GO Open Tuesday to Sunday. Lunch, noon to 2 p.m. Dinner, 5 p.m. until closing. Plenty of parking in front of the restaurant. Reservations on weekends are a good idea.
Reviewed Oct. 21, 2007
